Controguerra, Abruzzo

A historic farm that has been owned and worked by the Montori family since 1862. Under the guidance of Camillo Montori it has been transformed from a mixed farm to a famed wine business with fifty hectares of vines and five hectares of olive groves. There is nothing flashy about the cantina which is sensibly on the plain below the hills of Controguerra, it is surrounded by vines used for their ‘estate wines’ where the soils are lighter and easier to farm. Further up the slope are forests and the vineyards that supply the Fonte Cupa line. These top soils are clay and sand mixed with stones deposited by the neighbouring River Tronto. The immediate bedrocks are sedimentary limestone, the foundation of so many great wines across the globe. The climate is moderated by the sea, which is a few kilometres east, and the mountains of the Gran Sasso to the west.
Camillo is a quietly spoken, modest man with an essential understanding of his surroundings; a senior and influential figure who was one of the founding fathers of the Colline Teramane DOCG and a true advocate for Trebbiano d’Abruzzo. He has now taken a back seat and is usually to be found in the vineyards amongst the workers, so no change there. His vision is held true by his daughters Laura and Beatrice who work in the old farmhouse, next door to which stands a fascinating system where the fermentation tanks sit on an 80 foot concrete column, enabling much of the winemaking process to be driven by gravity. At the other end of the cantina is their cellar of large Slavonian oak botti, not a barrique in sight. A real marriage of ancient and modern, and it works.
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