Ca' la Bionda

Marano di Valpolicella, Veneto

In 1997, Pietro Castellani took possession of, and rebuilt, the old winery named ‘Ca' la Bionda’ by his grandfather in 1902, along with its surrounding hillside vineyards. He promptly handed over control to his sons: Alessandro in the winery and Nicola in the vineyards.
Marano covers one of the highest points in Valpolicella and is famed for its marked freshness. The soils are predominantly clay, mixed with a high percentage of limestone rocks. Ideal for providing elegance and minerality to the wine, qualities that are essential to the ageing potential of a wine.
In essence, Alessandro is a traditionalist and believes in minimum intervention in his winemaking as well as in the vineyard. Vines are mostly trained using the unfashionable and ancient pergola system. In both hotter and wetter vintages, this has proved extremely effective, more so than the Guyot trained ‘modern’ vineyards. The vineyards are now certified as organic, which in reality means that nothing has changed. There are encouraging results from a part of the vineyard that is being farmed biodynamically.
The cellar is fully equipped but the family’s ethos is simple, the technology is there should it be needed and that, with care, it should never come into play; a fine and pragmatic stance. The building has blended seamlessly into the hillside and though newly built, now looks as though it has been there for generations.
There is capacity to make more wine and, rather than buy in grapes, Alessandro and Nicola bought a neighbouring vineyard; in 2015 while their fellow producers caught some August sun, they were re-building the terraces in readiness for the autumn. Interestingly they have also acquired vineyards in the highest parts of Marano to help offset the effects of hot vintages, a more common phenomenon in the last ten years. These changes also brought the production up to a modest 150,000 bottles, there are now three Castellani families to support. On that note, both brothers became fathers for the first time in 2019, it was certainly a year of growth for this gentle and hard working family.
Whilst the Amarone is the talisman, it is Casal Vegri that is at the heart of Ca’ la Bionda. It is a ‘cru’ (site) that does not give up a single grape to Amarone or Recioto. The Casal Vegri is a unique wine, Valpolicella made with the sort of attention a premier cru Burgundy might demand - and because none of the grapes are dried it is a precise reflection of the terroir. Their full range of Valpolicella wines is now highly respected both locally and internationally.