Ca la Bionda. Valpolicella Ripasso 'Malavoglia'
Valpolicella Classico Superiore Ripasso DOC
Grapes: Corvina (70%), Corvinone (20%), Rondinella (10%) and some Molinara and other indigenous varieties.
Smoke and damson, full and fine muscular fruit shot through with black pepper, espresso and clove, a totally delicious sour black cherry finish. 14%
Malavoglia, an unusual name for an unusual wine. It means 'I didn't want to do it' or ‘I didn't want to make it’ and he didn’t, because Alessandro doesn't really like Ripasso; he is unhappy with the idea of putting a Valpolicella onto the skins of Amarone, a process that changes the character of the wine and, in his eyes, makes it more of a cook’s wine than a wine of the land. Fortunately for us, his Norwegian importer appealed to his more pragmatic side by making him an offer that he couldn't refuse.
This ripasso is made to his Grandfathers' recipe where rather than just resting the young wine on the skins of an Amarone, it goes onto the skins of the Recioto as well as those of the Cru Amarone ‘Ravazzol’. This means that no extra sugars are required to restart the fermentation and the resulting wine is well balanced and characterful. The finished wine is aged for twelve months in three thousand litre oak casks.
The wine relies on patience and gravity to achieve clarification and is bottled without filtration.
The vineyards are farmed organically, though no mention of this can be found on the bottle, it is a personal rather than marketing decision as far as Alessandro is concerned.